Campy chain waxing

So after reading this forum and discovering mechanical group sets are heading for extinction and my 20y/o shimano crank is 15 years past it’s expiration date I have pulled out both my “old man “ card and my credit card and ordered a Campagnolo group for my ti Merckx…… this place can be expensive….(actually needed to regear it for a trip to the mountains and been planning this for awhile). Looking at the price of cassettes and chains plus starting with new chainrings and derailleur pulleys I am thinking this would be a good time to start waxing chains again. Just wondering if anyone is doing this now if they are using connecting pins and peening them, Campy chains with a connecting link, or a different chain? Have there been any issues if using connecting links or different chains? Thanks for any insight

1 Like

Boom…have been waxing campy chains for 3 years now. I run two chains…Chorus and record on a SR EPs group. This is 11 SPD btw. I also run 2 sets of wheels, with the race set having a 10-27 cassette. Waxing my chain has been life changing. I run a wipperman link and a kmc. I keep a few kmc links running, and change them every few months (for safety). The only issue I have is Chain skipping on the 10 tooth cog. Not bad on the kmc link, but horrible on the wipperman. I run a 50-34 on the front. Therefore the best solution imho is 52-36 on the front and 11-29 on the rear…them chain skipping non-issue with link. Hope that helps.

2 Likes

I hot wax (Silca) 11 speed Campagnolo chains and join them with Wippermann links. Works fine but I refresh every week (~200 miles) to ensure the chain is quiet and well coated/lubricated.

2 Likes

If you’re using 12 speed Campagnolo, Sram Eagle power links are also a good option. Works great with my 12s Chorus setup with wax. :slight_smile:

5 Likes

Why KMC? Don’t like the Wipperman links?

1 Like

Good question…main driver being the issue with the 10 tooth cog. I do a lot of racing, and with the 10-27 on the race wheels, skipping was killing me on the sprint!! Generally, the Wippermann is a great link, and much easier to use (no tools required). Once I swap my front chain rings over to the 52-36 and run the 11-29 as standard, I will probs go back to the Wippermann.

1 Like

Yep have been using Sram Eagle link for a few years now with 12 Speed Super Record chain. I run two sets of wheels but generally find one chain ok. I find waxing is just as quick as thorough clean and lube alternatives if set up. A few steps but each is quick and easy. It also joy if you mechanical keeping hands and gear clean.

2 Likes

I do not doubt the waxing of chains at all.

But I actually find it quite therapeutic taking the cogs off the freehub and individually cleaning each one. I used to soak the chain in a detergent, clean with an old tooth brush then with a rag I would roll the chain over many times till I was satisfied it was clean enough.

Yes it takes some time but it’s the quality of the time and process with the end result very satisfying.

I would assume those that do not appreciate this process would not be riding tubulars much either?

2 Likes

I am using YBN waxed chains and connectors on my Record and Chorus roadbikes with no issues.

But is anyone waxing Ekar 13sp?

I stripped and waxed the original chain, but after a service the LBS replaced the chain with a factory grease version and they said that Campy chains work much better with wet-lube, so that is the current state of affairs. I dont like the fact now that my chain and cassette get much more dirty now - it is a gravel bike after all. I’m thinking of going back to waxing - I’m also running a 9-tooth cog. So anyone waxing 13sp?

1 Like

Running wax on 11 speed Campag, with KMC joining links. 1 record, 1 chorus and 1 KMC gold chain on rotation. All equally happy with wax. I run 52/36 with 11-25 to 12 -29 cassettes depending on terrain and state of fitness!
It’s definitely the way to go. These 3 chains have been in rotation for over 15,000km with still negligible wear and a clean bike, although I try to use a different bike if the roads are wet.
The only pain was the initial stripping of factory grease.
I use pure paraffin wax with 10% 1.6 micron PTFE added.

1 Like

Find a new LBS, this one doesn’t know what it is talking about.

6 Likes

i started waxing chains when i installed a chorus 12sp groupset a couple of months ago. i use ybn master links and have had no issues at all (except my campag chain tool hates me now)

2 Likes

Yep. Greatest respect to LBS’ but unless you’re using bog standard cheap Shimano kit, they probably won’t understand your setup.

1 Like

I am using Ufo Drip on my Ekar chain. Cleaned it well before to have all the factory crease removed. Works wonderfully. I don’t see a problem doing it.

The factory grease was exceptionally gunky though and outgunked the stuff Shimano uses by a mile. Of course, all manufacturers praise their own greasing of the chain as being sublime.

1 Like

I also have three chorus chains in rotation, KMC links on a Campag Chorus 11 speed setup; 12-27x50/34. After 18,000, also negligable wear and a clean bike. I use MSW, rewx two chains at a time at about 300k, change quicklinks after about 5 uses/1500k; precautionary approach. All riding on bitumen, some damp weather.

1 Like

YBN chain and links. Run 11 and 12 speed versions on road, gravel and MTB. All bombproof with no surprises.

1 Like

I run 12sp Chorus with Eagle power links and Silca hot melt. Works great.

3 Likes

Yeah, Campy chains come with some tenacious grease on them.

I did the same thing.
Mechanical 12 speed Record rim brake, Campy Bora wto 33 tubeless wheelset, on my 10 yer old ti Moots. Wonderful!
I Silca hot wax before installation and pin the chain per Campys instructions and then just use Silca SS drip wax very 125 miles. Easy peasy and 0% wear after 1000 miles :slight_smile:

4 Likes

George Orwell wrote an excellent piece on how to make a cup of tea. The process, the ritual and the meditation are as important as the end result.

5 Likes