I understand your frustration, but you voided the warranty. I don’t think you can trash C-dale for that.
I will throw the Park Tools CC2 chain measuring tool under the bus. Always showed new chain at 0.5 worn straight after fitting.
Before doing my own maintenance the LBS used it and showed me that my new chain was so worn I needed to replace my new cassette too
Now I use the CC3.2 tool which is easy to use and far more believable.
How did I void my warranty? I rode the bike, the drop outs got worse over time because of the asymmetry and the malleable nature of carbon drop outs. I even was using the factory wheelset the only major changes where saddle, stem, bars, crankset, and I had to go to 23s from 25s which come from the factory because 25s rubbed in the stand.
Send me a note with your address and paypal for the shipping cost and I’ll gladly send you them need that trash out of my garage.
Sorry! My comment was meant for @alister.g.taylor, not you. My bad.
Cannondale are notorious for reneging on warranty claims, to the extent that 1 fairly local shop has now stopped dealing with them. To give 2 examples:
2 year old supersix: crack where bb joins chainstay (on the inside, i.e. closest to the wheel). Cannondale: ‘crash damage’. Customer - ‘what kind of crash damages the chainstay on the inside rather than the outside, doesn’t damage the paint, and leaves the rest of the bike unmarked?’. Cannondale - ‘dunno, but you crashed it’. The shop try to intervene on his behalf and the best they can get him is a new frame at cost (after a lot of effort).
Customer has ordered Synapse from an online retailer. Rides it for about 10 minutes and front shifting is awful. Tries to sort it and can’t, so he takes it in. Long story short, the shop discover braze on is very slightly misaligned. Customer claims on warranty. Cannondale - yep, you guessed it - ‘crash damage’.
It’s a shame. They are a brand whose bikes I really like the look of, but given their long-documented history of issues and their equally-documented propensity to tell customers to ‘f- off’ when they make a warranty claim, I’d be very reluctant to buy one.
I’m with you on this one. I ended up going back to my crummy, torn up saddle bag. Looks terrible but has never fallen off.
It might be because I generate a lot of down force, but my heavy ass works well with that firm pad
I also won’t buy cannondale anymore. Had creaky bottom bracket on my first bike, a Synapse. Then my friend bought the new SuperSix and the seatpost kept creaking. Also every time CT reviews a dale something is creaking.
On that note TRP Spyre were trash, which I bought under the premise that they were the best mechanical disk brakes for a road bike. Should’ve gone for BB5.
How much do you weight? I have the canon equivalent of that seatpost and have had slip issues (working out how much to overtorque…)
A friend of mine has two ergon cf-3 and weighs 95 kg and haven’t had issues with slippage. Do you use grip paste? I have borrowed it for some test riding and did not have issues then.
The ergon cf-3 has been out of stock for a year or two, but I asked Ergon a month ago or so and they will make a new batch mid 2022. I’ll probably get one. I’ve tried to get one from ebay, but they’ve been rare and when they appear the sell almost as new as there are a lot of gravel folks that want it. It has some quirks in setup, but my current view is that it’s a really good product for gravel if you care about weight (otherwise redshift or ee-silk posts are better as you can configure them). We’ll see if I get one and if I will get issues with slippage and creak.
I can see how it can have larger issues with slippage than a normal seatpost as it is split in two, so I guess it depends on how large your seatpost inner diameter is (they vary a little bike to bike), how much extension you have, what type of grip paste you use and what type of seat clamp you have.
On my tandem where I use a shim and the pilot seat post gets lots of twisting forces (as the stoker handlebar is attached to it) I’ve had to resort to a dual clamp, if nothing else works that can be worth a try. I hope I won’t need to go that far with the ergon though…
I’m around the mentioned weights. Bought the used canyon version off of a friend, put it on a grail AL and generally love the ride quality. Really smoothes things out without being bouncy. No grip paste yet, that’s the next step, on smooth rides it’s fine. But at some point a big enough impact moves it down and once it gets past a certain point will continue to slip down due to a reduced diameter higher up. I figure carbon paste will solve the problem, just preferred not to use it.
Press fit BB bikes - creak city.
Yet another Silca seat roll lost in the woods here. Not disappointed to lose the seat roll, was painful replacing the tools it held.
I have concluded that Silca should stick to hard parts.
Ditto on the Silca Seat Roll. The Boa that holds it in place is off center and when the roll is filled with stuff I have had the roll flip over and hang from the Boa despite it being tight. So, I have always needed to add a second strap to hold it securely. I let Silca know and there answer was that they’d never had that problem.
Agreed on the “off center” aspect of the Silca roll….I’ve never had it flop over like you experienced, but the design is definitely lacking.
Rotor direct-mount round chainrings. Had a set on my road bike with Di2, front shifting was loud and slow. Switched over to another non-Shimano chainring set and the shifting is now perfect, with zero front derailleur adjustment done. I also have another bike with the same di2 front derailleur and some no-name micro-compact rings I bought on eBay, and that bike shifts perfectly in front. Rotor makes great bottom brackets, though!
Salsa top tube feed bag. Not enough structure to open the bag unless it’s jammed full of stuff. Also, the plastic knobs that allow the bolts to be tightened by hand ended up messing up the matt finish on my top tube. Grrrrrrr… But, happy ending, the SIlca top tube bag is AMAZING!!! It has really changed winter riding for me. Easy to open and close with thick gloves. I just toss a bunch of dates in there and off I go for blissful hours in the cold with plenty of easy fuel at the ready.
Any tubeless carbon wheelset with internal nipples. Too much of a headache to true the wheels. ENVE is particularly bad in this respect, as they seem to have an issue with losing spoke tension. I’ve been mansplained in multiple versions of why this is, and frankly don’t really care. A wheelset that costs $2k should make you feel like God on a bike and require virtually no maintenance. Another happy ending though - Light Bicycle rims ride as well as ENVE, you can’t change my mind.
I had that with their oval rings, and simply assumed it was the ovality (is that a word?). Your experience suggests that it might be more general.
On the Enve front, internal nipples are a perfect example of why I’m becoming a retrogrouch (I’m told). If modern and high tech means better performance and zero (or at least very easy) maintenance, then I’m all for it and potentially prepared to pay the cost. But when it simply falls into the ‘difficult to live with’ category, it just makes me wish for in line adjusters, rim brakes and the good old days when life was in black and white (that last bit was a joke, btw).