SRAM 10 speed lever rebuild

Hello Paceliners,

So I have a winter bike - a nice steel number - with a mix of Apex-Rival-Force 10 speed parts (cranks and fd are new, the rest is/was in very good well kept condish). Everything worked awesome till today. I left the house with 20 speeds, came back with 2. Turns out my right sram lever’s innards broke or fell apart, so when I tried to switch gears, say from 14 to 15, the lever clicked but gears didn’t change. It got worse: by the end of the ride I had a 34x15 or 50x15. I stopped at my lbs and they handed me a very close to NOS right lever. Got home, replaced the lever and all’s good.


I asked if they rebuild 10 speed levers; they don’t. So my question is:
Anyone out there rebuilds 10 speed sram levers? I think the ratchet broke, am not sure exactly what happened so I’d like to know if anyone here rebuilds or knows of folks who rebuild 10 speed levers. I know the levers have far fewer moving parts than Campy, so it shouldn’t be a stretch. My other bike is a modern carbon beauty with wireless etap, so no need to ask me to ride electronic stuff - I want my mechanical parts working well. I never heard or seen sram levers breaking, outside of accidents/crashes.
If anyone out there could point me in the right direction, it’d be great.

Thanks much and happy New Year,


Lots of rebuild videos for SRAM on Youtube–I’ve rebuilt 10spd Campy levers from similar videos–it can be done, but you need to have access to replacement parts (I have a couple of “donor” levers, where the internals were fine, but blades were damaged). What was wrong with the NOS lever?

Yeah, there are different generations of 10 speed shifters. I’ve dealt with one with the white cable spool from the early 2010’s, and the newer ones with the red cable spool. I think hydraulic brake levers only have the newer red cable spool.

The internals- cable spool, gear ratchet, and spring- are mostly transferrable between the two generations, even though the pawls they engage with are different. If putting the newer generation into an older lever, you might need to file the inner edge of the gear ratchet stop so that part of the shifter lever doesn’t hit it.

The easiest way to remove the internals if the center post isn’t internally threaded is to pop out the circlip on the brake pivot, then remove the brake lever so you can push the post out from that end. Otherwise you can just put a bolt in the threaded end of the center post and pull it out. Leave the bolt in it to remind you that the threaded end needs to stick out when you reassemble it. Be careful when pulling out the shift lever, the older gen had a free spring can go flying.

Reassembly can be a bit tricky since you’re trying to compress the shifter spring while also blindly pushing the center post back in. Wiggling the shift lever around will usually help get the post lined up.

There’s a good chance that everything is fine inside other than being gunked up. As grime accumulates shifting becomes harder, and ultimately you cannot move the paddle. A quick field fix is to spray water from your bidon or spray something like silicon lube or WD40 (yes this works - I’ve tried it). Have a look at the YT videos (I followed this one but there are others: Sram Doubletap Shifter Rebuild - YouTube). Process is pretty easy but there are a few fiddly steps. Clean, lube and rebuild. Should be good as new.
If something is in fact broken, you are unlikely to get piece parts, but I’ve seen a lot of shifting mechanisms available online on ebay etc.