What projects are you working on?

I had those in WC colours back in around 1991.

My dad got me riding with him in early 90’s. He soon got a ‘93 Specialized Epic. I never really rode it because it was his and it was expensive and CARBON!
It’s a bike I remember fondly. So as sort of an homage and to fulfill my curiosity I got one in my size and Slowly building it up with 9spd Dura Ace (9200 brakes) and low profile carbon wheels.
I’m still collecting parts, but this is the latest mock-up.


Here I did some coloring on the phone to get the final look

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These were nice bikes. I still have one that I keep at my parent’s place. I don’t ride it much but always enjoy it although it is in need of fresh cabling, new bar tape and brake pads:

Not so sure about that idea of putting a black headset. If you plan on keeping those groupset parts in silver I think having a few other parts in silver there and there look better. Going full black would only make sense if you intented on mounting a brand new dark groupset.

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That’s just your opinion, which is of no value to me.
Edit: to be clear, it’s my vision, not yours.


An 11 or 12 speed cassette is 1.8mm wider than the cassette body. So you can either shave down the body or the cassette or a combination of both. I did the cassette because it’s much easier.

On the 11 speed Ultegra cassette the aluminium carrier for the 3 biggest sprockets has a lip which if you file it off and a tiny bit more, it magically fits. Almost as if it were designed that way. If you’re riding 11-25 or larger there is enough room for the cassette to overhang the hub flange/spokes in most wheels. I would not try this on a DA carbon carrier as those crack without being filed.

Similarly 12 speed, but be careful as clearance to the hub and spokes is much tighter. On mine at least, I only took enough off to allow the locknut to easily engage. Thus the 11 sprocket is closer to the dropout than standard, but it all works just fine.

This is pretty easy with a dremel, but I did my 11 speed one with hand files, which was a pain. Obviously the proper tool is a lathe. Raoul Luscher has a video of him modifying a set, so if you’re local you could get him to do it.

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Iiiinteresting cheers…though it’s purely academic in my case, as I sold my 7900 c35s when I went 11 speed. They were great wheels too - I’d definitely still be using them if I had them (with a Campag groupset :face_with_open_eyes_and_hand_over_mouth:)

As to Raoul being local… he literally couldn’t be less local :laughing:

Alright, after years of head-scratching I sort of waxed. I cleaned three chains - two new, one used - using the bottle method, finished with acetone, blasted with the compressor, dried and dipped them in Silca Super Secret chain lube. Grumbled a bit while doing it, because it’s a bit more involved than my usual Park Tool Cyclone clean + drip lube. Let it dry overnight.

Went out for a couple of hours yesterday. The chain is basically spotless. Drivetrain noise was as quiet or quieter than with my old method. If the coating holds up for three or more rides, I’ll be a convert. Not sure I would go to the point of getting a crock-pot, etc, and I will keep my eye open for an ultrasonic (for other reasons as well), but I will grudgingly acknowledge that this is an improvement over my old ways.

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Waiting for this to arrive towards the end of the year - haven’t figured out the paint job in detail but at least all the Deda K19/25 tubes are selected as well as the T47 bb shell from PMW … :grinning:


I have two EDCO made stainless steel 11-32 cassettes for Shimano 10 speed body - working well they do :+1:
I have used Shimano and SRAM 10 speed cassettes on Campi 10s speed bike and vice versa - rather smooth action.

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You won’t go back. It hurts a bit at first but the result is oh so smooth…


As an avid waxing fan… it saves me heaps of $$$ and time every year… let alone the grief I used to get from the Mrs re “greasy” hands.
If nothing else that in itself is worth it.
I love the “drop it in the pot” ease of use and a simple wipe down of the frame/wheels to keep things looking nice and clean.
After showing several other mates how easy it is there are quite a few converts in our bunch.
www.zerofrictioncycling.com.au for the low down on how to set yourself up and life waxing is the bomb.

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Was wondering how you pulled it off. Thank you for your super-detailed reply. Nice knowing the ‘how’, now am certain that this was executed by a professional and that I certainly won’t try this at home! Cheers.

I’ve always been put off with waxing as I live in Britain, the fact is that it’s pretty rainy here and I like to ride in all weathers. I’ve read in several different places of riders who wax chains still going back to lube in winter.

How do your waxed chains hold up on a bike that is ridden in rainy weather day after day?

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As for day after day of wet rides and wax on the chain… I live in Vancouver BC, somewhat damp.
Have been using MSW in the crock pot for re-waxing chains in bulk for at least three years.
I run about seven bikes with waxed chains. Usually I would run a chain in the wet only once if it is anything over 100km and over 20mm of rain and then take it off and replace it with a previously waxed chain.
If it is less precip than 20mm and under 100km i would dry the chain out. Usually letting it dry itself out on the bike and spinning it occasionally to expose damp spots on rings and cogs covered by the chain. Then I would apply a healthy dose of Silca wax-based lube and ride that using the above interval.
Generally I would apply a bit more lube on the chain before the next ride if I felt the chain could use some extra.
Using this as a rough guide my drivetrain cleaning and maintenance time spent is incredibly small and definitely far less than the oil method.
Wear on the chain and cogs non-existent even after having waited a little too long to swap chains and having a screeching wailing chain mid-ride on big days out.
I compare this to the past thirty years of riding and wished I had converted to wax at the beginning.
Oh I ride road, cross, gravel and MTB. All with similar results.
I should say that the cross chain would usually get swapped after a very muddy event just because. The cross drivetrains have never been cleaner in particular and always perform well through any race conditions.
Hope that helps.

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